eBikes by Lectric

Buying a used Lectric bike – A few tips for shopping for a 1.0, 2.0 or 3.0 model bike (may apply to other models also) Note: 1.0 and 2.0 models are no longer available from Lectric and only seen on the used market.

1. No matter how good the deal you will want to buy a bike that you can personally inspect before purchasing. The cost and risks of shipping and potential for fraud will make most distance purchases not make financial sense.

2. If you are unfamiliar with Lectric bikes, taking another Lectric bike owner along to inspect the bike is a good idea as they will be able to test ride the bike and tell you if the operation all seems normal. The bikes have a learning curve that you don’t want to try to experience on someone else’s bike you are test riding.

3. Buying a used bike means that you have no warranty with Lectric. Lectric may, in their good graces, help you with problems but if parts are needed you may be paying for those.

4. You may be able to save some money on a used bike, probably +-20% but you have to determine if that taking a chance is worth it. As you will see below in the inspection suggestions, there are a number of things to check out. Buying a new bike with an active warranty may give you greater piece of mind.

Some things to check on the used bike:

1. Ask the seller to fully charge the battery, before your inspection and test ride. If the battery is over 53-54 volts when fully charged, that is what you are looking for. Turn the bike on with the On button and click that button several times to sequence through to the volt reading.

2. Remember that the mileage shown on the odometer can be reset to zero so the mileage number you see on the dash console may not accurately indicate the actual age and usage of the bike.

3. Check the rear derailleur to be sure the lower cage area is not bent in from a crash or rough transport. It should be straight up and down. The bike should shift smoothly. Not being able to select 7thgear may indicate a bent derailleur guard.

4. Check the derailleur guard for deep scratches. This will give you a general idea how many times the bike has crashed or has fallen onto its derailleur side.

5. Spin the wheels to be sure they are straight and have no curb dents or loose spokes.

6. Test the brakes. Inspect the rotors for wear and groves in the disc surface. Some brake noise is normal. You may want to plan on changing out the brake pads after your purchase.

7. Inspect the tire sidewalls and tread for cracks and cuts.

8. Fold the bike and bars to be sure the frame and handlebar folding mechanisms are working.

9. Inspect the frame’s main folding hinge for any cracks. If the bike has been taken off jumps or otherwise abused, it can crack the frame near the hinge.

10. Open the frame at the hinge and smell of the area opposite the battery and near the opening where the wires enter the frame into the controller pocket. If there is an electrical smell like burned plastic then you may have a controller or wiring that are failing.

11. Inspect the area where the motor wire exits the rear wheel (right side on 1.0 & 2.0 and left side on 3.0). You are looking to see that the wires are not showing and are still protected inside their coil spring housing. This area is especially subject to damage on the righthand side where it exits the center of the axle. If the wire is kinked or its covering is damaged, this is a sign of a bike that has fallen on its side.